The corner of Old Northern Boulevard that went quiet when Shish Kebab Grill wound down has its lights back on. Mythos Kitchen is open at 1380 Old Northern Boulevard in Roslyn, serving a full Greek menu seven days a week from 11 in the morning to 10 at night, with dine-in at the corner and delivery already running.

When this site first reported the name in mid-September, Mythos Kitchen was a promise: a new Greek name that had just surfaced in state records, attached to a storefront that had gone dark after more than a decade of kebabs. Sixteen days later the promise is a dining room with food on the tables, and the first diners have started weighing in. The early ratings on its delivery pages are running around 4.6 out of 5.

The menu runs deep

This is not a gyro counter. The menu opens with the spreads a Greek table starts with: tzatziki, taramosalata whipped from red caviar, a zesty kopanisti of roasted peppers and feta, melitzanosalata of baby eggplant, or a pikilia platter that brings four of them at once for $20.

The Horiatiki salad, $22 on the delivery menu, arrives the traditional way, with a full slab of feta laid over tomatoes, cucumbers and olives rather than crumbles scattered through it. Souvlaki comes two ways: in a sandwich, chicken or pork for $18, or off the grill as a platter for $30. The grilled section, listed under its Greek name Kreatika Skaras, adds bifteki for $28, and a seafood section, Thalassina, tops out with grilled shrimp at $40.

The homestyle list is where the kitchen shows its range: moussaka for $32, pastitsio for $28, a stuffed tomato and pepper for $28, gigantes plaki for $20, a $33 beef stew and a $29 roasted chicken. There are soups, vegetables of the day and a dessert list behind all of it.

A decade of kebabs, then quiet

The address matters as much as the menu. Shish Kebab Grill held 1380 Old Northern Boulevard for more than a decade, a small Turkish and Mediterranean room on the stretch where Roslyn's village life actually happens, between the clock tower and the duck pond end of things. When it went quiet this year, the corner joined the list of village storefronts waiting for a next act. Mythos is that next act, and it kept the corner in the kebab business.

Roslyn keeps eating well

The village is on a run. Ilios brought Greek frozen yogurt back to the froyo corner on September 1. Pilar Coffee Bar picked Roslyn for its first Long Island room. The family behind Nino's Beach is at work on a project of its own down the block at 1363 Old Northern. And Limani has anchored high-end Greek seafood in the village for years. For a downtown a few blocks long, that is a remarkable amount of Greek cooking, and Mythos gives the casual end of that table a home: the weeknight moussaka, the souvlaki sandwich after practice, the spread order that turns into dinner.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. For the neighbors who watched the corner sit dark, dinner is back within walking distance, and it comes with a slab of feta on top.