Drinks have arrived at 530B Jericho Turnpike. As of Friday, August 21, Ikedo Mineola, the Japanese eatery whose 24-seat counter bills itself as the first and only dedicated handroll bar on Long Island, can pour beer, wine and spirits, and that clears the way for drinks to join a menu built around rolls that are assembled the moment you are ready to eat them.

Why a handroll bar has a clock on it

A handroll is sushi at its most impatient: warm seasoned rice and fresh fish wrapped in a sheet of toasted nori, handed across the counter the second it is rolled. The whole point is the contrast between crisp seaweed and warm rice, and that contrast survives for about a minute. Ikedo's counter is built around that minute. Nothing is rolled ahead of time and nothing waits under a heat lamp. The restaurant says each roll should be eaten within 60 to 90 seconds of being assembled, which is why the format demands a bar rather than a dining room: the chef works in front of you, and the distance from hands to mouth is measured in feet.

The details are specific. The nori is imported from Hokkaido and kept crisp until the moment of assembly, the sushi rice is seasoned by hand, and the fish is cut fresh daily. Twenty-four seats wrap the bar, walk-ins are welcome, and reservations are not required.

From a Port Washington noodle shop to a Jericho Turnpike counter

Ikedo is not an import from Manhattan or Los Angeles, where counters like this have become their own restaurant category. It is a homegrown second act. Founder Mimi Chi opened the original Ikedo on Port Washington Boulevard, a neighborhood spot known for ramen in a tonkotsu broth simmered for 12 hours, along with sushi sets, poke bowls, boba and Japanese parfaits. The name, according to the restaurant, translates roughly to Mimi's House, and the menu reads like a family kitchen with unusually good knife work.

The Mineola location on Jericho Turnpike is the brand's second, and it is where the handroll idea gets the full treatment. The ramen, poke, sushi and boba all made the trip, but the counter is the reason to come. It is open Monday through Saturday from 10:30 in the morning to 9:30 at night, and Sunday from noon to 9.

What actually changes at the counter

The new bar covers beer, wine and spirits served at the table, or in this case, at the counter. Ikedo's schedule already includes a Thursday happy hour from 3:30 to 6:30, and a full bar alongside a raw bar opens the obvious doors: sake with the day's fish, a cold beer with a bowl of tonkotsu, a cocktail while the chef rolls your next course.

The change lands on a stretch of Mineola that has been quietly collecting reasons to stop the car.

Mineola keeps filling in

This is the third Mineola dining story of the month. Pickleball Prime, the racquet club on East 2nd Street that opened this spring, is working on a bar of its own, and the village has watched Emack and Bolio's start scooping ice cream a block from the LIRR station while The Bridge, a 101-unit condo building, rises beside the tracks. A downtown that Long Islanders mostly drove through is turning into one they stop in.

For anyone who has been meaning to find out what the handroll fuss is about, the math just improved. The only counter of its kind on the Island now comes with the option of a drink in your hand while you wait out your 90 seconds. Blink and the nori goes soft; that is the deal, and it is a good one.